Friday, February 29, 2008

The Terracotta Army

Due to China's turbulent history, many great relics and sites have either been lost or destroyed. However, some of the greatest archaeological finds in the world continue to turn up in China. Most of these finds aren't as great as the Terracotta Army, but they are usually discovered in a similar fashion. As many people know, the Terracotta Army is a huge collection of soldiers, horses, carts, and weapons that was found completely underground in large pits, not even 40 years ago. Since then, archaeologists continue to excavate this vast area and find more and more relics. How did they find it? Look below,

Yep, what is probably the greatest archaeological find ever was discovered by some villagers digging a well. This sign is at the base of the largest pit at the excavation site. Here's Darbie and Jimbo to give you an introduction of the Main Pit of the Warriors.

I've heard a lot of tourists leave the exhibit pretty unhappy, and I guess if you're expecting to get to excavate one or touch one for yourself, I understand. However, it's hard not to appreciate the sheer magnitude of this discovery. The excavation site isn't actually in Xi'an, but about an hour down a long, bumpy road by bus. It was made even more pleasant by a man across the aisle that had to burp (eggy burps) every half-mile or so, yet our little Darbie persevered.

The army protects the tomb of China's very first emperor, Qin Shi Huang. He was quite busy during his lifetime, as he is the first emperor to unify China, as well as standardize its speech, weights, and measures. Of course, to do all these things (especially in 200 BCE) you kind of have to be pretty ruthless, and he was. He ruled, and many people died, by his sword. He made the capitol Chang'an (now Xi'an), and the city enjoyed a very rich city life because of it's political significance, and perhaps more importantly, because it was later the terminus of the Silk Road. Why did he want this huge army buried with him? That's a good question, no one really knows for sure. Although, there are two guesses, one side believes he was afraid of the afterlife (because of what he did during his lifetime), or that he fully believed that death would not end his reign as emperor, therefore he would need an army.

The excavation site has 3 large pits, though one was closed for renovation or excavation while we were there. We decided to save the greatest pit for last. Each pit was discovered held up by thick beams that supported roofs over the pits. Unfortunately, some of the roofs collapsed under the weight of the earth above, and this was the result.


Still pretty cool though, right? My personal favorite is when just enough happened to knock the soldiers head off, and leave a haunting Bed Knobs and Broomsticks-type soldier.

Originally, most of these soldiers were carrying weapons. For the most part, the weapons were made of wood that decayed over the thousands of years they were buried. If you look at the right hand of the soldier in the picture above, you can see where he once held a weapon of some type. Fortunately, a museum is also on-site that displays a few of the weapons unearthed. But back to Pit 2, the first pit we saw that had these.Well, what was the cavalry supposed to ride in the afterlife, centaurs? Plenty of horses have been excavated, and closer to the actual tomb of Qin himself, bronze horses and chariots were found. They are in the museum as well, and a picture of them can be seen below. (Sorry they are encased in glass covered in fingerprints). Check out how the chariot could block arrows.

The museum also explains how certain designs on each soldier display the soldier's rank and skill. The higher up the soldier, the fewer there are. It's sometime hard to see the different ranks from the pits, so the museum had some examples.
I believe the picture above is an archer, while the one below is straight, kung-fu fighting. You can clearly see the difference in their armor and hair styles, which all help indicate rank.
Ok, enough museum stuff. On to the biggest pit, aptly called Pit #1. As I wrote above, it's the first pit that was discovered, and it contains the sign marking the well. As you can see, it's huge and could easily contain a football field, if not two. Unfortunately, visitors have to walk around the perimeter of the excavation, but the next video will hopefully get in tight enough to help you appreciate the enormity and insanity of army. It also marks the first time you'll hear Kendall start the narration of a video by saying, "All right, so here...".


Here are some more shots from Pit #1, containing approximately 6,000 soldiers.
The observant blog reader will notice that a lot of the warriors in the pictures above not only have different faces, postures, and clothes, but that some also appear lighter. That's because, every one of these warriors was painted! You can really see this in the picture directly above. More horses, this time you can see how their mouths are open to accept the bit and bridle, all of which were once buried. Next to the horses is a charioteer, his hands out guiding the reigns.


Sorry about the quality of the shot, but above you'll see some reconstructed warriors. They take remains from the soldiers in the demolished pits and put them back together like jigsaw puzzles. Sounds like fun for a rainy day.


Talk about a great idea, a Terracotta warrior puzzle.


Miles Travelled:


Qingdao - Xi'an: 975 miles


DB&KM




Tuesday, February 26, 2008

Xi'an: The City for (History) Lovers

Greetings! We're back from our Spring Festival travels, and we have a lot of stories, pictures, and videos to share. For the most part, we were very lucky and everything went smoothly during our journey. Here's our list of cities visited: Xi'an, Leshan, Emei Shan, Chengdu, Lhasa, Hong Kong, and Sanya. We'll be blogging about our trip in that order. So, without further delay,

Xi'an

Xi'an is most famous for its Terracotta Warriors. We knew we were definitely going to see them, but we didn't really know what else was going to entertain us while we were there for a few days. Luckily, Xi'an has plenty of fun sites to offer. I know many of you were worried that the bad winter storms would effect our travel, thankfully it didn't, but that doesn't mean we didn't see a lot of snow in Xi'an. Here's our first picture taken on the trip.
You'll notice that from here on out that we're pretty bundled up since most of outings were outdoors, and involved a lot of walking. Anyway, this is Darbie in the heart of downtown Xi'an. Behind her is the Bell Tower, but more on that later. Xi'an is one of the only cities in China that still has it's city wall in tact. The walls were built in the 14th century, and encase downtown Xi'an. We were able to walk on the city walls (through blizzard conditions), and it's almost unbelievable how thick and tall they are.

Darbie and Jimbo are standing outside the city walls, which are about 12 meters high (39 ft for the metrically-challenged). On the left is one of the many tunnels providing road access to the interior, they are usually jammed with traffic. Also, if you notice, we're standing on a bridge, which crosses over the moat that still surrounds the city walls.


Here, I'm on top of the wall looking down on what is one of the most appealing parts of Xi'an, ancient Chinese architecture in a very modern city. Our guide book says that people either love or hate Xi'an, and we clearly came down on the former. Darbie and Jimbo walking on the city walls. This shows just how wide the walls are, and they actually narrow as they get to the top! At the base, the wall is about 18 meters thick (60 ft). Also, you can see on the right that Xi'an was preparing New Year's displays with Chinese scenes. We saw many in construction on our brisk wall along the wall.

In the center of Xi'an is the Bell Tower that was mentioned earlier. The Bell Tower once functioned as an alarm clock, with all the bells inside struck at sunrise. Just down the road from the Bell Tower is its counterpart, the Drum tower where drums were beaten at sunset. We got to visit both, and while they aren't the greatest exhibits, they offer ceremonial music displays and great views of the interior city. For those of you interested in hearing the music, check out the video below.




For most of the trip, we were advocates of "slow travel." We walked if we could, stopped when we wanted, and ate wherever we felt like. A few memorable dining experiences took place in Xi'an. The local specialty is yangrou paomo, lamb meat stew. We had the local dish a couple of times, and I can endorse it as the epitome of slow eating. Once you've ordered it, the server brings out a bowl of bread which you then have to tear into tiny bits. She had to keep badgering us to tear it smaller and smaller, basically until your fingers hurt. Then they take the torn bread back to the kitchen and put the stew in, which is basically just lamb and noodles. While it isn't the tastiest dish, I can definitely see how a hot, filling dish is popular in winter. I was also pleased to notice that "The Real Deal" Holyfield had at some point visited Xi'an and had a bowl himself (begging the question whether or not there are little Chinese Evander's running around.).

Yet another cool site in Xi'an is the Big Goose Pagoda. It is touted as Xi'an's most famous landmark. The pagoda is really, really old (completed in the 7th Century CE), and is where China's most famous Buddhist monk Hsuan-tsang brought back Buddhist scriptures from India. They've also surrounded the pagoda with a pretty interesting temple, with some great Buddhist ivory, stone, and marble carvings depicting the Buddha's life. In front of the temple is a statue of Hsuan-tsang himself. Although they promise wonderful things inside the pagoda, there's little more to see or do than simply look out over the city, and even that can be less than great on a typical, smoggy day. Nevertheless, the outside of pagoda and its surrounding park and temple is worth the trip if you're in Xi'an. Contrary to what the pictures display, I don't believe the Big Goose Pagoda is leaning. Below you can check out two great Darbie pics. First, enjoying a nice winter scene in front of a Buddhist shrine in the park. Last, working on her graceful sword skills in hopes that she can one day become a Buddhist nun with amazing psychic powers.


In addition, we also hit the Shaanxi History Museum which contains a lot of great displays and exhibits, the Folk House which is quaint, historic house with little to offer, and the Forest of Stelae Museum which can get brutally cold with all those tall stone tablets and no heat. But do check out the museum inside and the side streets along the way. Here's a glimpse.


That's a less-than-brief look at Xi'an for you, and we didn't even cover the Muslim Quarter, an area of back alleys and side streets, which has loads of eating and shopping awaiting every tourist and as soon as we stepped onto it we were beckoned into the "secret" back rooms of vendors. Xi'an was a pleasant surprise, with a great blending of ancient and modern. I wish it was the prototype for every Chinese city, though to be fair, no city's history holds a candle to the history that has taken place in and around Xi'an. Visit and see for yourself!

What's that? Ah yes, the Terracotta Army will be covered in our next session, we don't want to exhaust our dear readers. But, to appease you, here's a great video of Jimbo's first hotpot meal. I think it was a memorable experience to say the least.

We're back, spread the word!

DB & KM