Thursday, May 29, 2008

A Day in the Life

We thought it might be nice to take a break from all these travel blogs and give you a glimpse of how we live on a daily basis. It isn't very exciting by any means, but at least it might help you picture how or what we're doing here.

Our university, Shandong University of Science and Technology, is located in a suburb of Qingdao, officially called the Economic & Technical Development Zone. That means that all of the major industry (and polluters) get shoved out here, away from the beautiful, healthy city of Qingdao. Within walking distance of campus, there are some major factories like Haier, Hisense/Hitachi, Aucma, and Sannis. While you may not be too familiar with all of these names, they are giants in the world of Chinese retail, Haier especially. Hopefully, in the future we'll be taking a tour of one of these massive factories and bringing you some info about factory life.

But today's blog is about something very near and dear to us here in China, bus #6.

Bus #6 is our closest bus stop to get into town. The stop is right outside the north gate of the school. Unfortunately, the #6's are also the oldest, slowest, and dirtiest buses in the fleet. We don't go into town that much, at most two times a week, because of the commute. From our bus stop to our most frequented stop in town takes approximately 40 minutes. Now, that isn't that bad, it's just that there really isn't that much in town that warrants a 40 minute ride. Nevertheless, we have to make our weekly grocery runs, and the occasional night out, or visit KFC or Pizza Hut, so we anxiously await "big green" at our bus stop.


There isn't any kind of strict bus schedule, but buses are supposed to run in 10 minute intervals, though, usually with #6 it can be up to 20 minutes (making the commute a solid hour!). Also, notice the brown sky in the picture above. As the weather has finally started warming, the sky has taken on a filmy brown quality. Check out the picture from on the bus below.

That strange ball of light hovering in the sky is the sun at mid-day trying in vain to cut through the atmosphere. Hopefully, the last few days have been something of an anomaly and we'll get some clear skies soon.

Back to the bus! As the bus pulls up to the stop, a bus conductor yells out the window asking if anyone wants to get on. Not all buses in China have bus conductors, but a good majority of them still do. They walk up and down the aisle (if they can) and demand money. Our ride into town costs 3 yuan for the both of us. The conductor then tears off two seemingly meaningless pieces of colored paper and hands them to us. In the picture below, you can see the conductor doing her routine.

All buses have the automatic bus card system installed, but I guess having bus conductors ensures more jobs for the people. If Kendall were an uneducated Chinese man, he'd either want to be a bus conductor or a taxi driver, both seem like good, simple lives. Speaking of which, sometimes we do take taxis into town (only 20 minutes!), but we like to think we're truly living Chinese when we bus it. Plus, we're rarely ever in a hurry anyway, in fact, the bus is a nice place to study flash cards or mull over LOST theories.

Inside the bus it's pretty spartan. Each bus has a different seating design, but invariably they always have seat covers, because the buses have been in use so long the seats are very worn. In the picture below, you can visualize you're on the front row of seats, right behind the driver! As you can see, it's just as hi-tech in the bus as it is outside. The box on the right is the bus card validator-thingy. A lot of times, especially on Sundays, these buses get crazy crowded. There has only been one time that we've been on the bus when they've not allowed any more people to get on. So, sitting next to an open window is crucial. Also, if you're ever standing on a crowded Chinese bus, watch your wallet! Pick-pockets love to make a quick snatch and hop-off on the next stop.

Guess that's enough bus talk for today. We have a special surprise below. On the bus route is a moderate hill, but the bus is so old that it barely makes it up each trip. It isn't uncommon for the bus to roll backward while the driver slams into the next gear. Check out the people walking on the sidewalk at about the same pace as the bus. Each time we cross our fingers we don't have to get out and push.




Be back later,

DB&KM

Monday, May 19, 2008

Lingering around Luoyang

Well, we got to Luoyang around 6 in the morning, which is early, even for the Chinese. We checked into the hotel determined to just put our stuff down and head right back down, but we ended up crashing for more than a few hours. When we awoke, we went straight to Luoyang's most famous attraction, the Longmen Caves.

A long time ago, Luoyang was the capital for a few Chinese dynasties. Unfortunately, not too much of that history is still visible in the town. The Longmen Caves are an outstanding exception. Back in mid-first century when Buddhism was dominant, many artists started carving Buddhas into the cliffs. Eventually, more than 100,000 images and statues were carved. Each one is done in a cave, the size varies with the image. It is really impressive sight, check it out below.
I wish you could see that one a little bit closer up. There are a lot of them there believe us. Plus, the trees are covering a good portion. This picture is only one side of the river, the other side has even older carvings. I'm a big fan of smiling, happy buddhas, so I was happy to see this one.

The most famous "cave" is below. It attracts a big crowd, and it is magnificent. Rarely ever do we get to see works of art in China so beautifully preserved. Next, you can see the right side of the cave. It shows how well these images are carved, and also shows that you wouldn't want to tangle with a buddha's security.Unfortunately, not all of the caves are so well preserved. Some of the caves were vandalized by Westerners eagerly wanting to bring them home. A lot of these have been replaced, but some are still in museums throughout the world. The Cultural Revolution also left many of these statues headless or faceless as communist and Mao extremists came to destroy religion and relics. A lot of the statues look like the one below, of often times, worse. Our next matter of business was to visit a famous temple in Luoyang, called the White Horse Temple. It is recognized as the first Buddhist temple in China. It was also established in the 1st century CE when two Indian monks came riding into Luoyang on white horses with ancient Buddhist texts. We've seen a lot of temples now, and I've got to say, they don't really hold too many surprises anymore. Although the White Horse Temple is very similar to the rest, it has a beautiful campus with a lot of gardens. Above, you see Darbie with one of the horse statues that recall the white horses (though this one is grey). Below is a cool pagoda that was supposedly built to house the scriptures, though I'm fairly sure it's just empty these days. Last, Darbie has a deep love for circular doors. These can be seen in a lot of Chinese architecture, both inside and outside.

We had planned to go visit the famous Shaolin Temple, which some of you Kung-Fu buffs might know is the temple with the fighting monks. It is also the refuted home of Ch'an (Zen) Buddhism. But, not having anyway to return to Qingdao besides hard-seat train (not an option) prevented us from visiting. Oh well, always something for next time we find ourselves stuck in Henan. After a lot of hassle and hustle and bustle, we ended up flying back to Qingdao on a leisurely 1.5 hour flight (a lot more convenient than the would be 17 hour train ride).

DB & KM

Thursday, May 8, 2008

The Nightmare from...well, China

As some of you might remember, we had planned to visit Luoyang as the first stop on our Spring Festival journey, but we couldn't get train tickets. A few weekends ago we had a four-day weekend and decided to take the train to a bordering province, Henan. Unfortunately, the school tried to keep us in the dark about our time-off. The students had let us know about a "sports meeting" (think elementary school field day) that was taking place on Thursday and Friday. All of the classes were to be cancelled. As soon as we heard about it we asked our contact person who's only reply was, "I don't know, I'll check." This daily routine went about two weeks and wasn't broken until about the day before we wanted to leave for Luoyang, when he finally chose to let us know that indeed, we didn't have classes. Begrudgingly, we thanked him while muttering unkind words about him as we walked away.

It wouldn't have been a big deal at all if it were not for the difficulty of getting to Luoyang, only one daily train leaves from Qingdao, and that train hits a lot of rural spots in-between. So, the day before I got us tickets to the train, the worst available - hard seat. We'd heard nightmare stories about hard-seat car train rides, but usually they took place around the overcrowded traveling of Spring Festival. The ticket lady made it seem like it would be easy to upgrade to a soft-seat or sleeper. So, somewhat optimistic we left for the train station and boarded. The train had an odd schedule, it left Qingdao at 2:00 pm and got to Luoyang around 5:00 am. But the worst thing we noticed was the name "hard seat" was quite literal. We remained optimistic because of the possibility of upgrading. Nonetheless, the hard seat, was more of a bench with an upright back and minimal padding, and about 3.5 feet wide. Check out the video below. The sun was still shining, and we were in pretty good spirits.




As you can see, car #14 was pretty crowded. It wasn't bad enough that all the benches were full, but China insists on selling standing room tickets. So, at all times, someone is standing over your shoulder. When people get off at a stop, usually more people get on. So, as the ride progresses, the cars get more jam-packed. We knew this happened, it's just that we didn't expect all this chaos on a Wednesday night!

At times, people even sit in the middle of the aisles. If you look toward the back of the picture, you'll see a bunch of guys just standing in the the thruway. That is the designated smoking area, though it usually just ends up wafting in the car.

Things went from increasingly bad to unbelievably worse when the students next to us allowed a family to sit down. The family was very, very backwoods (or backfields) China, and everything about them resonated it. I think we all expected the family to be getting off at the next stop, but it turned out they were there for the long haul. As the students realized this, the family began migrating their way toward the bench opposite us. And then...they slept,

And slept,

and slept.

What is that last picture of? Well, as you can see the little boy was sleeping on the bench with Dad. The mom decided to sleep UNDER the benches on the disgusting floor, with, yes with her 4-week old baby. From the picture, you can also see just how much room we had under and between the benches. The mom stayed down there for around 6 hours, which meant Kendall needed legs about 15 inches shorter. The smells, sounds, and aggravation made sleeping nearly impossible as it got later. This all led to a very unhappy and miserable Darbie and Kendall.

This all might seem pretty trivial, but there are more stories that would only frighten you. Did I mention how we were basically dehydrating ourselves so that we wouldn't have to experience the bathroom? During Spring Festival, when trains are even more packed, many people where diapers or strategically use bags and bottles. Yuck!

So we're NOT saying never take a Chinese train, just never take a Chinese train hard-seat for more than, oh 6 hours. Anything else, and you're asking for an exercise in patience, will, and sanity.

We actually did get to Luoyang, and we'll have that story next (it's a little better).

DB & KM

P.S. Beware! Immediately wake yourself up if you see this in a dream...